Throwing wires in the pipe is a simple job.
#SERVICE WIRE FOR 100 AMP PANEL PRO#
At that point you can call in a pro to wrap up, without it sounding like you're calling the pro in to wrap up - you describe the big conduit as "future-proofing that you did earlier". The other neat thing about conduit is, it constitutes "most of the heavy lifting". I recommend 90 degrees or 180 at the outer limits, to keep the pull job DIYable. You're not allowed to have more than 360 degrees of bend between pulling points. Make sure to provide accessible pulling points, such as conduit bodies. The biggest win in conduit is to go to Rigid type, which allows 6" burial depth. Still, follow Matt Simerson's advice about upsizing conduit. If the entire run is in conduit, you don't need USE-2 - and can just use THWN-2 or XHHW-2, which are smaller and necessitate smaller conduit. You can run USE-2 direct underground, but anywhere else, it will need a conduit, and you'll still need a conduit for the 24" downward into the earth to burial depth.
Even the 3% zealots would not recommend a wire size bump here.Ĭonduit definitely helps.At 100A, expect a voltage drop of 2.43%.At 80A, expect a voltage drop of 1.94%.At 60A, expect a voltage drop of 1.45%.Since you know your practical load is 60A, you should compute voltage drop on that basis (not breaker trip). You are required to provision 125% of headroom on planned loads, so you shouldn't plan to draw more than 80A on a regular basis. #1 Aluminum is the minimum allowable size given the 100A breaker supplying it.
Since EV chargers draw continuous loads for hours per day, the parasitic losses add up. Larger conductors means less of the energy that flows through your meter to charge your car is lost heating the wires. Minor reasons to upsize your conductors is reduced voltage drop and less resistance. For me, those potential future uses of the garage panel are the main reason to consider larger conductors. If you live in PG&E territory, these "someday" off-grid upgrades have recently moved up the priority list. That garage panel might be the best place to plug in that new 120A mega-EV-charger, whole house battery, generator, and/or 20kW solar array. Larger conduit also makes it possible to later pull bigger wires without digging. Consider it a gift to the future owner of your home, which might be you! I'd also pull an extra pull cord in the conduit. The cost difference for larger conduit is small and it makes pulling much easier. The conduit fill table says you can get your 1-1-1-3 into 1-1/4". Since it's my yard, guess who that digger is likely to be? If someone is digging in my yard, I want him to hit the conduit before he runs his shovel or pick into the wire insulation. I like more protection for my underground wires than dirt and wire insulation. I wouldn't even consider skipping conduit. That can be sheathing, if you buy wire that way and run it "in" the walls/floor. Under your house you need to be in an approved raceway.
NEC Rules for Underground wiring Under Driveways and Outdoor Parking Areas
#SERVICE WIRE FOR 100 AMP PANEL UPGRADE#
I could put two Tesla Wall Connectors on that wire and only need to upgrade the breaker. It was way overkill for my 32A ChargePoint, but just a couple years later and we have 40A and 60A EVSEs available. A few years ago I dropped 2 gage Cu from my panel to my car charger spot. Most Level 2 car EVSEs only draw 30-32A continuous. Your choice of 1-1-1-3 Aluminum is adequate.
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